Fix body language

Help stop aggressive behavior when free longing my horse?

While I am free longing my horse, she often cuts across the roundpen or arena in a certain spot to cuts the far corner. To prevent her from doing this, I move towards her and flick the long whip at her shoulder to ask her to move away from me. However, instead of doing that, she usually ignores me, goes right by me and sometimes tries to kick at me! She seems to be aggravated when I ask her to move away; I try to guide her into the corner using body language and the whip, but she responds aggressively to it. I obviously don't want to get hurt, and I've tried to fix the problem several times in several ways. I always reward her with a "good girl!" when she responds well, or makes an effort to. However, she's not getting much better. She is not an aggressive mare at all and we know each other well, so I'm not sure why she is doing this. I am trying to be assertive towards her (not aggressive) and I do not always just longe her; I vary what I do with her. She has this problem in both directions, and it is not related to the gate or anything outside of the area (she does the same thing wherever I longe her; roundpen/arena/field. Also, she is turned out all day and stays in a stall at night. She is very sound, and is in no obviously discomfort, pain, etc. I also work her on a variety of footings (grass, rubber, dirt) and there is no difference. I am using a long longe whip, and am being as clear and consistent in my signals as possible. I've had this horse for over two years, and we know each other's body language well. However, I like the idea of setting up obstacles for her (PeaBee, thank you!) because it makes sense that she might be getting bored and unfocused. Paintgirl, your advice makes SO much sense! I can't believe that I didn't realize all that before, so thank you very much! I've been reading about Chris Irwin's techniques, and they work really well. I've really improved my communication with my horse, but this is one of the problems I'm still working out. PrettyKitty, thanks for reminding me about the two whip technique. I've found also, that it works well!

Public Comments

1. sounds like you need to go back to the line. she's showing you she's in control not you.
2. Try and use a long whip, and keep it on her shoulder. They do make long ones, and this would be ideal. If she moves at you, Give her a little tap. Use it like a long crop. Try that!
3. well, if any of your signals seem at all reluctant the mare will ignore them. All signals must be clear, consistent, and have meaning. You can't ask her to move away and not mean it. But if you have done all the three things, then maybe she's trying to tell you that something isn't right with her. Horses are usually flight animals, rather than fight, so something must be bugging her or she knows that she is dominant.
4. You need to be careful the answerer above me might be right there might be something there that she does not like maybe before free longing (lunging) her then walk her around if you notice she starts acting strange in that area like maybe she pricks up her ears at something figure out what it is and fix it.-GOOD LUCK!
5. It's hard to tell why without seeing this in action and knowing her history. How much time is spent in the round pen? Is she just sick of it? Is she out to pasture most of the day or put in there from a stall? Does she do it one direction or both? And is it towards the gate? It sounds like you are making some good efforts to address this but are just stuck right now. Others will tell you that you need to change your body language enough to mean it, but from your post it seems you are at a loss as to how to do that. So I am going to suggest something different. Put some obstacles in the round pen. PVC poles. Cones. a plastic barrel or garbage can. Tarp. Landscaping timbers. Hay bales with a low jump. Give her a challenge. You may need to go back to a lunge line and have her jump and navigate the obstacles. But her mind will be with you again. Work farther and farther out and then see if you can do it without a line at all. Two things will have happened. She now has something to think about except boredom and running by you. You have re-established control as the leader.
6. Your horse is telling you that she's the boss and wants to make the decisions on where to go. When you try to interfer by directing her, she is treating you like she would treat another horse lower on the pecking line by pinning her ears, ignoring you or being aggressive. You are in danger of eventually getting kicked unless things change, so you are correct in being careful to avoid getting hurt. Are you a youth? Are you a novice rider? This horse obviously isn't aggressive or nasty or she would have been worse by now. She is trying to get along with you, but in a horse's mind there is absolutely nothing wrong or immoral with kicking at another horse lower in the pecking order. She has no idea of the serious damage she can do to you compared to another horse. Also, horses are not generally motivated by praise and even patting. They can learn that praise means a reward, such as a rest period, but otherwise praise is not a natural motivator in a horse. Do you see a horse praise another horse when they move out of their way? No, what a horse does for a reward is back off and allow the other horse relief of pressure. I can give you some advice on what to do, but I think this is potentially a serious enough problem that you might end up getting kicked or struck. I would suggest you find an adult or more experienced (and knowledgeable) person to assist you when you free lunge this mare. They will likely be much more forceful when your mare crowds your space. They will step forward with great force, use the stick to tap or even whack your horse and show her that beyond doubt they are the boss. But in this process the horse may argue back at first, just as horses do in a group when they try to decide who's boss. I don't want you to get hurt while you go through this, that's why I think you may need someone else to assist you. But one thing you could do is go back and do a bunch of different groundwork with the horse on line. Make sure you can pivot both her hips and then shoulders away from you on command. Make sure she will back respectfully on command. Make sure you can get her to move forward anytime you ask on line. If you can control your horse forward, backwards and sideways on line, then you are ready to start working offline. Also, spend some time sacking her out, and you may even want to try hobbling her so that she realizes you alone have control whether she moves or not. This doesn't have to be done aggressively, but it can make quite a difference. Buy a good set of training DVDs by someone such as Clinton Anderson, Cleve Wells, or John Lyons. I especially think you would benefit from Clinton Anderson's set on groundwork, or roundpenning, or better yet, his set on "Yearlings, weanlings and foals". It doesn't matter if your horse is an adult, she needs to learn how to move each body part when you ask. I think alot of your problems will disappear once this happens, but in the meantime you need to keep safe and use common sense.
7. First of all have you checked that there isn't something up at the end she is afraid of that could be spooking her. One of the horses I had in the past was constantly frightened of one corner of the arena and it was months before we found out the farmer was dumping chicken carcasses on the other side of the fence so he could lure foxes at night to shoot them. Obviously the horse could smell them and didn't like it. Easily remedied when I had a word with the farmer and he stopped using that area. As for the free lunging that your doing you can hold two lunge whips as your not holding a line. I actually find it easier with a lunge whip in the hand to control the rear and a driving whip (shorter shank and better lash for cracking) in the hand to control the front. My sons pony was so wicked when we first got him, apart from ditching my son alot, he would cut in like you describe and lash out at me with his inside back leg as he passed by me. I tried all sorts to sort him out to no avail until I went to watch how circus trainers actually train their horses - they used the two whip method. You have more control over your space and keep your horse at whips length staying safer. The driving whip makes such a good cracking noise if needed and points at the shoulder but the rear is kept in line with the lunge whip following up. If this does not help on its own try using a lungeing roller with side reins attached, keeping the horse balanced to a degree and may stop her from cutting across as she will be concentrating on the contact from the side reins as well as listening and watching you. Hope this helps. Ps. Our pony is a completely different character now with respect for both me and my son and I can free lunge normally now.
8. What PeaBea said...I started to type an answer and read that one, I cannot add to it, very succinct and correct...
9. Paintgirl said it ALL. i was going to answer with something similar, but she really hit the nail on the head.
10. looks like your horse doesnt respect you enough to know that you are the boss and what she is doing is unacceptable. when i got my new horse he would do this so you just have to work with her ALOT more. if she kicks at you make her work harder for punishment. and do striclty groundwork until you esablish a order of who has the higher rank like in herds. she wouldnt dare kicking out at the top horse in the herd because she knows he shouldnt. so do more work with her to establish this. like grooming, leading, more lunging and make her work harder if she plays up until she calms down and realizes if she acts up she just has to do more work for it. more of everything groundwork!
11. i personally feel there is cause for concern here as far as safety goes. we give off body cues that we dont realise but the horse does. it sounds like you are positioning yourself worn. if you get just the tinyest bit in front of the movement there is a danger that she will turn on you. this is a natural response. if you are in the firing line of being kicked than you are far too close. free schooling should only be used on very obdient horses. galloping around the school and kicking out is not good for training. instead i would go back to basics. be clear about what you want from her and lunge her with a line. if she kicks out, or goes a little nuts than get the side reins (Correctely fitted for her capability) on ASAP. this will give you more control, however she should not be restricted. work on commands, straightness in the circle, and forward ness. you can manipulate where your circles are. if shes having problems with corners that lungle in the corner. horses will always fall in at the same place. second guess her and have the whip ready for a little flick on the shoulder. suare up you shoulders like marine and in a deep loud (not screaming) voive say 'OUT!' you have to be firm like your teacher were to you. but dont react to her emtionally, horses dont get our emotions, it will just confuse her. use can also use cones near the corner or poles at a right angle to encourage her into the corner. it will be easier for her to go round instead of over. finally consistant repitition and as soon as she start doing well, finish the session, that her reward. it may take time but stick with it. if your under about lunging in anyway then get a qualified expert to help. theres nothing wrong with having lessons. only when she is super on the lunge line should she be free schooling. when freeschooling or lunging, no more than 20mins as they work harder if its done properly good luck